In the City that never sleeps...

So I haven't slept (fully) in approximately 6 days. Why? Because it turns out at 29, my body decided that it was high-time for me to enjoy the glory and grandeur of literally the worst sinus infection of my life. Especially as this is the week I am currently without health insurance. Awesome. Though as my lymph glands swelled to the size of limes and my temples felt like a bullet was going through them, I found out that seething, agonizing pain can actually get incredibly boring after a few days. Chugging back pain killers and antibiotics, I decided to go out into the world and distract myself. In that light, I present: RETLY'S TOUR OF THE EAST SIDE (while almost blacking out from pain).

Stop 1) Nom Wah Tea Parlor 

Not a particularly stunning piece of interior design, but one that I have a particular kind of affection for. The Nom Wah Tea Parlor on Doyers Street is over 90 years old. Though it has had its up and downs, it has the eerie, almost medicinal quality of space that I love in Chinatown. Plus great Dim Sum at low, low prices.

You may have seen it in a lot of TV shows and movies, including 'Premium Rush', 'Smash', Various Food Network spots and the Jeremy Irons/Glenn Close movie 'Reversal of Fortune'.

Stop 2) The New Museum

It's not the same for me without the giant, rainbow "Hell Yeah" on the outside of the building, but still a nice place to visit. Especially out on the top most terrace, which gives a fantastic view of Mid-town Manhattan. For me, the New Museum is a hard sell, it's kind of like the baby MoMA, and as such the exhibitions are the dominant feature in the space. Every time is different: either love it or hate it. Though one thing that stays true: my love of their bathrooms. 

Stop 3) The Four Seasons Bar

Getting classy as a mother-****er up in here. Mies van de Rohe at his Mies-iest. The arm chairs line up with the window structures. Of course they do. That nerd. The room is a classic golden proportion with leather, wood and bronzed metal and that's it. It's the classic, sophisticated environment that just screams "capitalism".

Ugh. Beautiful. 

Also, if you're interested in why the walls have no paintings, I would check out Simon Schama's "The Power of Art" about Mark Rothko. There is a story there mis amigos. 

 

Stop 4) The Frick Collection

So out of the money frying pan and into the money fire. I know we've talked about the Frick reference library before but man oh man, that house is crazy. Though there are some of the most famous Rembrandts and Vermeers Art History provides, the key to the collection is the Whistlers. Architecturally, it is a literal embarrassment of riches. 

Welp, that's it for now. God willing this sinus infection nonsense ends before I am driven crazy by the pain. Aleve, don't fail me now. 

The New Adventures of Old New York

So as mentioned on the previous post, I now live in New York. Apparently. That's the thing with looking for a job. You starve forever and then WHAM! You're in different state, you have to be at a certain place at the same time everyday and you live on top of a holistic medicine outlet in Chinatown.

It's now Friday night which means my first week at a new job is at its close. After a glass of wine, a long soak, realizing I have no blowdryer, going out to buy a blowdryer, getting distracted, getting dumplings, finally remembering to buy the blowdryer, getting back to my apartment and blowdrying my hair, I am ready for bed.

In this first week the question I keep getting from friends and family is: "What's it like?" and for right now: I don't really know. It's strange but familiar. Big but close knit. Lonely but not as unkind as I thought it would be. All and all I think it's too soon to tell. I think I've moved to this metropolis at the same time when many of my associates have decided to pack it in. Singing the refrain of "I just want to get out of New York" which, while refreshingly honest, does kind of put a damper on the excitement I would otherwise be feeling for a brand-new adventure. Personally, I'm excited to have a sense of independence again, even if it's in a place as weird and overwhelming as this.

But that's enough about that boring, personal malarkey. Let's get to the real meat of this blog: BUILDINGS.

I've decided to just start posting interesting architectural examples I come across in my day to day work, which usually involves site surveying all across the 5 boroughs. Most of the sites I work on are fairly nondescript, so I'm going to skip over them and get right to a few places I've been to this week which deserve a larger audience.

NUMBER 1: Baruchim Ha Ba'im. Also known as the Synagogue for the Arts, the Civic Center Synagogue

Probably one of the most interesting religious buildings I've seen in a long time. This Synagogue was built in 1967 and has some of that trademark formal optimism. Like a funkier I.M. Pei. Like a funnier Louis Kahn.  The architecture feels like it comes from that version of the past where the future was going to be awesome. 

NUMBER 2: The Merchant's House

   

The Merchant's House Museum is an often overlooked little gem in NoHo. Apparently the youngest daughter of a well to do merchant was cast a rough lot in love, never got married and kept the house as a pristine remembrance of better times (a la 1858) even as the area crumbled around her. I find stories like these always fascinating because  

A) They come from a time when it's like "Oh you don't have a man to take ownership of you, you know like property? I guess you're an embarrassment. Let's all pity you." 

Which...just...so...many..questions..there... and 

B) It's not "period" furniture. This is the furniture. Like, all of it. That biz is rare.  

Architecturally it's not all that unique for the era, but it's nice to find a place that is so untouched. Plus in October they dress it up like you're going to a funeral, it's a unique experience. 

NUMBER 3: The Stained Glass Windows on the Bronx Zoo Station

Not architecture, I know, but I found this series of stained glass windows on the 5 train going up through the Bronx to be charming and lovely. They were designed by Naomi Campbell (not the one you're thinking of) and produced in 2006. There's an article about it HERE. They are brief and beautiful. The kind of drawings a kid might do about the animals from the zoo, but with a sophisticated hand. 

Ok - I think that's it for now. Stay cool and stay tuned for more New York City finds.